(Click on photos to enlarge)
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These are my most favorite booties of all time. Moms of babies I’ve made these for say they
love them the most because they stay on little feet and aren’t easily kicked
off. I made them on my SK860 midgauge
machine with ribber, beginning with an English ribbed cuff and worked down to
the toe. If you don’t have a ribber, a
picot hemmed cuff, mock rib, latched rib, lace cuff or any of your favorite
cuff styles can be used instead of English rib.
These feature a shortrowed heel and a gathered toe. Babies don’t care if the toe isn’t form
fitting because they don’t do any walking in booties but a shortrowed toe can
be used if you prefer. Also, I mattress
stitch the side seam from the public side to give a nice appearance. Baby yarn is most always soft and again, baby
won’t be doing any walking in them so a mattressed seam won’t cut into their
little foot.
I’ve given 2 sizes, newborn and 3 – 6 months size in parentheses. Size can be easily adjusted by adding or subtracting
stitches and rows. I’ve used several of the popular baby yarns
for hand knitting and all have work very well.
But all baby yarns are not created equal so size may vary a bit just because
of the yarn used.
RedHeart Baby Soft yarn
Bernat Softee Baby yarn
Berroco Comfort DK
RedHeart Designer Sport (heavier)
Bernat Baby Jacquard (T1) Size: Newborn (3 to 6 mo)
Gauge: 6.5 sts, 8.5 rows = 1”
Sole about 4” (4 ½) long
RIBBING:
1) Tension R on both beds, ribber at pitch P4, cast
on for English rib, 14-0-14 (15-0-
15) stitches, work 3 foundation rows, as
follows or as instructed in your user’s
manual.
a.
Select every other needle on both beds, with the main bed needle being
the
outermost on the left, and the
ribber needle being the outermost on the right
hand side. All knobs and levers set for normal stockinette
knitting.
b.
With COL, knit 1 row to the right.
Hang cast on comb and weights.
c.
Change the left set lever on the ribber carriage from 1 to 0. Knit 1 row to
the left.
d.
Change the stitch dial on the main bed carriage from 0 to S and knit 1
row to
the right.
e.
Change the stitch dial on the main bed carriage back to 0 and knit 1 row
to
the left.
2) At Tension 2 on both carriages, change the
stitch dial on the ribber carriage from 0
to
‘the upside down U’ and knit 19 (21) rows ribbing. End with COR.
3) Transfer ribber stitches to the main bed.
4) Lower ribber and remove CO comb and use claw
weights hereafter.
5) Replace ribber arm with main carriage sinker
plate.
6) T-2,
Knit 2 (3) rows. Work eyelets on this row if desired.
Make
eyelets on needles (working from the L) 4, 12, 18, 24 (5, 13, 20, 26).
(….x…….x…...x…..x.…)
7) Increase 1 stitch on right hand side of ‘0’ if
necessary to make an even number
of stitches on that side. (Necessary
for later heel shaping.)
8) Knit
8 (9) more rows, (10 (12) total if not doing an eyelet row). End with COR.
HEEL:
1) Push all needles left of -0- to hold position,
14 (16) stitches in work.
2) Make
sure there are an even number of stitches in work. Put machine on hold.
3) * Push 1 needle on cam side to hold position. K 1 row across.
4) Repeat * until 6 needles rem in working
position. (Same # of stitches in hold on
ea
side).
5) Knit 1 row across. COR.
6) ** Push 1 needle opposite side of cam back to
working position, wrap needle next
to the carriage, knit 1 row across.
7) Repeat ** until all needles are in working
position, COR.
8) Take machine off hold.
FOOT
& TOE:
1) K 22 (24) rows.
2) Decrease every other needle, move stitches
togther and knit 2 rows across.
3) Gather the live stitches with yarn and secure.
FINISHING: Sew ribbing and side seam. Make a 2 stitch I-cord at T0 for 80 (90) rows
or to desired length, about 16" –OR- use a narrow ribbon for tie. Add pompoms
or tassels at each end of the I-cord if desired.
NOTE: I have an earlier post showing how I sew up the English rib entitled 'Flat & Invisible Seam in English Rib', dated 1 Oct 2012 that will be virtually invisible. (Click on the 'seams' label to the right.)
Team with a hat and/or blanket for a nice gift.
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