Tuck Foldover Scalloped Border

slisen.blogspot.com

(Click on photos to enlarge)

I needed a border to put around the tuck baby blanket I just completed in my previous post, of 20 March 17.  Because I had one unsightly side because I had yarn ends to do something with, I thought the easiest way around that was to do an edging that enclosed them.  I ran onto Diana Sullivan’s Scalloped Foldover Trim  on YouTube and thought that would work perfectly plus look very nice.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-8n2X8vlGo&t=10s  However after I got the blanket done, I thought that I wanted something a bit wider so I experimented and came up with a nice border just by adding another tuck row to Diana’s trim.  It still folded over great and does look nice. 

I started with waste yarn and ravel cord because I wanted to have live stitches to be able to do an invisible graft to the other end when I got done.  I made the blanket on my KX350 at T5 with sport and DK weight yarns.  The yarn for the border was a bit heavier and I wanted it nice and soft so I went up to T6.  But this border can be done on any machine with appropriate yarn and tension.

1.   CO 11 stitches with waste yarn and ravel cord, knit 1 row to the left,

2.   *  Put machine on hold, pull needles 3, 5, 7 and 9 out to hold position,

3.   Knit 4 rows,

4.   Push needles back to working position and knit 2 rows. *

Repeat this pattern from * to * for 1800 rows!  Yes, 1800.  Then scrap off to leave live stitches to be able to unravel and adjust for size and grafting to the other end later.

I used a 3/15 thinner weight yarn and a running stitch to sew the border to the back side.  Make sure to adjust stitching so the edging lays flat without flaring or puckering.  Gather up the border on the corners to make nice turns.  I then sewed the front side down.  I was afraid that it wouldn’t lay flat during the trips thru the washer and dryer so I loosely ran another running stitch thru both layers of the border, next to the inside row of tucks. 

I did a bit of experimenting to see how I wanted to attach the edging and decided to go under the ladder after the first full stitch of the border (much like mattress stitching), the picked up a stitch on the edge of the blanket.  Then go back and pick up the ladder, then over to the blanket.  Snug up the sewing yarn but don’t pull it tight.  It may take a bit of practice to see what you like best.

Ruffles the Electronic Way

slisen.blogspot.com

As an extension of my post on how to make shortrowed ruffles, Marzipanknits has graciously posted her electronic version of shortrowed ruffles on her blog at http://marzipanknits.blogspot.com/2013/03/ruffles-on-knitting-machine.html.  I urge you to try her version if you have an electronic or punch card machine.  And what an opportune time, right before the Purls of Joy seminar with their focus being ruffles this year.

Her electronic version is faster than hand pulling needles as in the manual version that I posted, but if you're doing Sew As Ya Go to attach to an already completed project, you will still need to pause to hang those stitches and you still will need to finish the edge of the ruffle to tame the curl.  However, lots of time is saved in just not having to manually pull needles for the shortrowing and it doesn't get nearly as tedious.

Happy ruffling!!

Ruffles by Manual Shortrowing

(Click on photo to enlarge)

slisen.blogspot.com

This is a ruffle that I have attached to the edge of a blanket with a Sew As Ya Go (SAYG) method.  For a more stable edge, I worked one row of single crochet around the edge of the blanket before beginning the ruffle but it’s not necessary.  The ruffle is formed by shortrowing and may be made more full by decreasing the number of rows between short rows, or less full by increasing the number of rows between shortrows.  The width of the ruffle can also be adjusted by casting on more or less stitches.  The ruffle can be made independently and sewn onto the edge of the blanket later if you chose not to SAYG. 

1.   With waste yarn, CO 10 sts.  T6, with carriage on left, K1R to the right.  If not joining the ends as for a blanket, you may want to do a permanent e-wrap or crocheted cast on.  Adjust tension to your yarn depending on the drape you want.  I knit this blanket on my midgauge machine with Caron Simply Soft and chose T6 to work nicely.

2.   With carriage on the right and using a transfer tool, pick up one stitch from the edge of the non-public side of the blanket going through both loops of the edge stitch and hang on the first needle latch away from the carriage.  K2R, ending with carriage on the right. 

3.   Continue in this manner, picking up the next stitch from the blanket each time the carriage is on the right, for a total of 6R…or number of rows desired depending on how full you want the ruffle. 

4.   With carriage on the right, set machine to Hold and manually shortrow by putting 2 needles furthest away from the carriage in Hold.  Knit 2R.  

NOTE:  This method will create eyelet 'holes' along the knitted row.  If you don't want the eyelets, manually wrap the first needle in hold before knitting the 2nd row to the right.

5.   Repeat holding 2 needles each time the carriage is on the right until all needles are in hold. With all needles in working position (or with carriage off hold), knit 2R, ending with carriage on the right.  

6.   Continue around the blanket, picking up stitches from the blanket edge each time the carriage is on the right and then shortrowing in the above manner. On the corners, decrease the number of plain rows between shortrowing to 2 rows instead of 6 rows, 8 times.  

7.   When the ruffle has been completed, scrap off and graft to join to the cast on edge.  Or you may work a permanent bind off around the gate pegs or back stitching. 

EDGING:

As with any machine knitted piece, the edge of the ruffle will curl.  Use your favorite method to eliminate or lessen curling.  I have added a crocheted edging on this blanket.  With crochet hook, single crochet, chain 3 in every other stitch around the edge of the ruffle.   

Lightly steam the ruffle and allow to completely dry before moving.

Mock Ribbed Edging

slisen.blogspot.com

This mock rib makes an excellent flat edging on the sides of blankets, scarves and even on garment armholes, hems and cuffs.  You may want to lower the tension if using it for hems and cuffs on ends of knitted fabrics.  It’s a fine substitute solution for machines without ribbers to add a nice ribbed edge that won't curl.  It’s worked during knitting and not as an add-on technique after the piece is knit.   The ribbing is worked on stockinette work only, not patterned knitting such as lace, tuck or fairisle. 

Depending on how wide you want the edging, drop the stitches on the third needle from the edge and every other needle after that.  Then using your latch tool, go under every other ladder and pull thru the stitch on the latch tool.  This can be done every 20 to 30 rows or wait til the entire piece is knit, then work the full row.   The edging around the vest is worked on needles 3, 5 and 7 from each edge.  The scarf is worked on needles 3 and 5 from each edge.

(Click on photos to enlarge)