More Spring Beauty

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We're not professional bird watchers but when we see something like these beauties, we become bird gawkers.  I put the hummingbird feeder up a couple days ago so they'd have food when they returned and the orioles claimed it as theirs.  We've had a fun day watching them even though not much else got accomplished.  The pictures were taken through 2 panes of window glass and would be even more glorious if they hadn't been.  I see the camera picked up some of the reflections from the glass but guess we can't be too fussy if they want to show off for us.  We're still waiting for the hummingbirds to make a showing.

Happy Spring!!

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Spring has finally arrived in the north central US!  Our first dandelions appeared yesterday AM…grumble, grumble.  But they have their beauty too, we just don’t all appreciate it.  We made a trip to the greenhouse for a couple hanging baskets for Mother’s Day so there are lots of opportunities to experiment with my new camera. 

The birds have been singing and gathering goodies for their nests, the frogs are happy and we've had some deer visiting our back yard.  They haven't lost their winter coats yet so they're looking kind of shaggy.  What they say about the grass being greener over the septic tank is really true, just ask the deer.  If you’ll look closely at the picture of the deer, you’ll see ‘buds’ on their heads where their horns are forming.

The trees are so close to leafing out and the DH has been working in the garden.  But all this gloriousness doesn’t come without a downside, the dreaded allergies are back too….grumble, grumble again.  But we will survive; we’ve been waiting a long time for this.

Enjoy the pictures. 
  




 

  

Paint Dyeing a Skein for Variegated Yarn

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Today I’m showing how I paint a skein of yarn to achieve a variegated yarn.  In this case, I only wanted 2 shades of the same color with short spans but you can use any amount of colors, in whatever length your pattern calls for.












1.  First off, my yarn came from a cone so I wound the yarn into a skein with my DIY niddy noddy.  I have 3 different shaft lengths to make 3 different length skeins.  Instructions for making your own niddy noddy with PVC pipe can be found at http://www.theanticraft.com/book/lostpages/niddy.htm.   It works great and doesn’t cost a fortune.  Be sure to tie off the yarn with figure 8’s so it doesn’t get tangled in the dyeing process.  And I tie a long strand of yarn thru and around the skein which comes in handy for lifting the skein when wet and also keeps it from tangling.

2.  Wet the yarn skein by ‘laying’ it on top of lukewarm water in a sink or pail.  Do not force the yarn into the water but let it soak up and submerge by itself.  Depending on the yarn and/or how it’s wound, the air bubbles that could be trapped by forcing it into the water may create resists to prevent the dye from being absorbed evenly.

3.   After the entire skein of yarn has been submerged by itself in the water, add a squirt of Dawn dishsoap or Synthrapol to the water and gently sozzle the yarn.  This releases any oil residue in the yarn.  Gently, rinse with lukewarm water and let soak in fresh water for atleast 30 minutes.

4.   While the yarn is soaking, prepare the dyes according to manufacturer’s directions and prepare the work surface.  I use a painter’s plastic drop cloth to cover my whole working area.  Then I lay down 2 long sheets of plastic wrap over the drop cloth.  When I’m painting with dyes, I add a couple tsp of white vinegar to the dye solution before applying to the yarn.  Certainly follow your manufacturer’s instructions for adding vinegar (acid), but when I’m vat dyeing in my crockpot, I always add the vinegar at the end of the process after the required temperature has been maintained for 30 minutes.

5.   After soaking the yarn for atleast 30 minutes, remove it from the water and gently squeeze (do not wring) to remove the water.  I use an old bath towel to wrap around the skein, lay it on the floor and walk on it.  The more water that can be removed before applying the dyes, the less the dyes will run into each other.  Lay the skein onto the prepared work surface with the seam of the plastic wrap running down thru the middle.  This plastic wrap will be used later to wrap the dyed skein for heating.

6.   Now the fun begins.  Wear rubber gloves!  Apply dye to the yarn in whatever pattern you like.  I prefer to use foam sponges but a squeeze bottle, syringe or anything of the like can be used to apply the dye.  Use your fingers to work in the dye as you work.  From experience, I’ve learned to apply the dark colors first, then fill in with lighter colors.  The colors will run together and if the dark color is already there, the lighter color won’t make much of a difference to it.  But a dark color merging into a lighter color will change the color or intensity of the lighter one.   Also be choosy about the colors you put next to each other.  If you don’t want any green in your yarn, don’t put yellow and blue next to each other.

7.   Carefully turn the skein over to see if the back has been saturated with color.  If not to your liking, turn the whole skein over and apply more dye to that side.  I wanted a tonal quality so I wasn’t real concerned about the backside but I didn’t want any white either, so I did turn my skein over and applied more dye.  If you want a solid color, blot up excess water with paper towels as you work.   Yarn that is  saturated with water won’t take dye real well.

8.   When your dyeing is to your liking, blot up excess water with layers of paper towels.  Check your work.  If you want more color or more even color, blot up as much water as you can and reapply more dye.  Again, blot up excess water before wrapping for heat setting.

9.   Use the 2 sheets of plastic wrap that you’ve been working on to wrap around the yarn skein, wrapping half of the skein with one sheet and the other half with the other.  Don’t wrap it with one sheet of plastic as you don’t want the colors from each section touching each other.  You may need to use another sheet of plastic to wrap the ends.  Yarn should not be directly exposed to steam or heat.

10.  I use a 7 qt crockpot for heat setting. In this case, steam will be used.  I have a little DIY rack that fits in the bottom of my crockpot to elevate the yarn over the water.  Don’t let the yarn sit in water, it’ll dilute the colors.  Put enough warm water in the crockpot to boil, my rack is about 4” tall.   I like using a crockpot because most dye manufacturer's recommend a gradual rise in heat.  I've never had a dye failure using my crockpot.

11.  Turn the crockpot on high and let heat til the water simmers.  Temperature of the yarn should reach about 200 degrees for atleast 30 minutes.  After 30 minutes, turn the crockpot off and let the yarn cool on its own to a temperature that will allow handling.  When cool enough to comfortably handle, unwrap the yarn and carefully rinse with the same temperature water as the yarn.  Use a squirt of Dawn dishwashing liquid or Synthrapol to remove any excess dye that hasn’t bonded to the yarn.  Rinse til the water runs clear.  Squeeze, remember not to wring, the yarn and wrap in a towel again, walk on it and hang to dry.

12.  When the yarn is completely dry, wind it into a cake and you’re ready to create and take pleasure in a project made with your own dyed yarn.

My Stars, Baby Blanket, G-carriage

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I just finished a g-carriage baby blanket.  I used Cheryl Jiles' dbj pattern from her Crib Quilts IV collection, did some redesigning in DAK, changed her original pattern hearts to stars and knit it on the g-carriage.  The dbj pattern can be ordered by contacting Cheryl Jiles at her 'under construction' website at www.wishknits.com.  It is a great pattern and I've used it for several other g-carriage blankets over the years.

My pattern is 196 sts wide and 412 rows long, knit at T9 for the end borders and T10 in the body.  Finished measurement is 30 x 44”.  I CO with a double needle e-wrap and BO with a latch tool around the gate pegs. I used the Russian join to connect the skeins on this one. I was hesitant to use Russian joins with the g-carriage but they went thru just fine. And I’m really happy not to have to work in all the ends after the fact.

T-Top, Sideways Knit Bodice and Sleeves

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I’ve been intending to make this top for a long time.  I just knew it would be something I’d like and wear and it is, so much so that I made 2 of them.  What inspired me was a knit-along sponsored by the Machine Knitting group on Ravelry.com.  http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/machine-knitting/2516194/1-25 

It’s modeled after ‘T-Time’ from KangaMooKnits.com, made on a Bond USM.  KangaMooKnits.com dissolved a couple of years ago but the wayback machine was able to pull an archive file. 
http://web.archive.org/web/20061230164311/http://www.kangamooknits.com/freepatterns/t-shirt.htm

This is a basic T-top that’s knit from cuff to cuff for the sleeves and bodice.  Then the body is knit in 2 pieces from the bottom up, sewed to the bodice and seamed on the sides.  Several knitters have joined the Ravelry knit-along and we’ve all been able to personalize it to make it our own.  I knit mine on my midgauge SK860 machine with DK weight yarns and added a crochet edging around the cuffs and bottom hem to control the curl on my first one and knit a 1” 2x2 ribbing at garment tension at the edges on the second one.   Hung hems could easily be done.  For this crocheted edge trim, I single crocheted around the entire piece, decreasing over the ladder stitches for the mock rib.  Then I used a larger hook and worked a sc, chain, sk 1 sc around on the first row. On the next and subsequent rows, I worked a sc into the chain space of the previous row and continued as in row 1 with a chain, sk 1 st and a sc into the space. I put 3 rows on the sleeves and 4 on the bottom.  KangaMooKnit's pattern is perfectly lovely as it is if you don't mind the curl at the edges.
 
I also added a couple inches to the length of the sleeves and didn't want to do the math so I used the calculator at http://www.getknitting.com/ak_0603mfcalc.aspx to determine the number of increases/decreases required for my altered length. 

The bodice can be knit longer by casting on desired amount of stitches (where the pattern instructs you to mark for the sleeves) on each side after the first sleeve is completed, then binding off the same number of stitches after the bodice is knit and before starting the second sleeve.  See my last schematic.

I must add that as I made this on my midgauge machine with DK weight yarns, I transferred every 6th st instead of the 5th as in the pattern on the denim colored top and transferred every 7th st in the teal top to make the 'mock rib' effect.

The top can be made for any size with any machine and yarn.  Swatch, launder and dry your yarn as you would the finished garment to get a good gauge.  Use the schematics below to fill in your measurements, stitches and rows, decide on your edging treatment, if you want to control the curl and you’re ready to knit a T-top following the written pattern from KangaMooKnits. 

This is my 2nd T-top knit with teal Berroco Vintage DK on my SK860 and ribber.  On this one I began each body piece with an inch of 2x2 ribbing knit at body tension.  I like it just as well as the first one and with less finishing.

AFTERTHOUGHT:  I wore the teal top today with the ribbed edge trim.  It was wonderful, except that if I make more with the ribbed trim, I would increase the tension (decrease tension dial) of just the bottom edge by up to a full number instead of knitting at body tension.  It had a tendency to stretch out as the day wore on.  The sleeve trim at body tension held up well. 

ANOTHER AFTERTHOUGHT:   This T-top pattern was used during a Knit-A-Long in the Machine Knitting group on Ravelry.com.  This is good because it sparked conversations along the way on how others made their tops.  One of the conversations led to a nice improvement on how to attach the body pieces to the bodices.  Instead of  making the body pieces separately and seaming them afterward, the body piece was knit after hanging the bodice on the machine which leaves no seaming after it's off the machine.  So for future tops, I intend on hanging the bodice on the main bed, knitting one row, transferring the stitches to make the mock rib design and continue to knit the body piece.  Easy!

  

 

Brimmed Chemo Sun Hat

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Machine:  Bulky

Yarn:  Peaches and Crème worsted cotton, 3.5 oz

           1 strand of 10/2 cotton in brim only, small amount

Gauge:  4 sts, 7 rows = 1”

Tension:  T8 for brim, T6 for crown

Size:  Woman’s Medium, 21” circumference

Begin with the brim:  Make 2.  (See note below)

1.   Scrap/ravel cord, CO 70 sts.

2.   T10++, K1R.

3.   Use one strand of Peaches and Crème and 1 strand of 10/2 cotton, threaded thru separate tension units on the mast.  T10+, K1R.

4.   T8, K2R.  (RC004)

5.    *  Dec 9 sts evenly across, starting with ndl L2.

6.    Use a garter bar, multiple stitch transfer tool or scrap off

       and rehang to move stitches together after the decrease

       rows so there are no empty needles. *

7.    K4R.   (RC008)

8.    Repeat from * to *.   K4R.  (RC012)

9.    Repeat from * to *.   K3R.  (RC015)  (43 sts remain)

10.  T6, K1R.  (RC016)

11.  Scrap off.

Crown:

12.  With wrong sides facing, hang the 2 brim pieces side by side onto 86 needles.  Remove scrap yarn.

13.  T6, K1R.  (without the 10/2 cotton)

14.  Beginning with needle #3L and keeping the empty needles in work, make an eyelet row by transferring every 3^rd st to its neighbor to the right.  (Make an even # of eyelets)

15.  RC000, K18R.

16.  *  Beginning with needle #3L, evenly decrease 9 sts total across.  Use a garter bar, multiple stitch transfer tool or scrap off and rehang to move stitches together after the decrease rows so there are no empty needles.  K2R.  *

17.  Keeping the decrease stitches on the same needles as the previous decrease row, repeat decreases from * to * 8 times total til 14 sts remain.

18.  K1R, cut yarn and gather live stitches and secure.

Note:  The CO edge of the brim flares upward a bit too much for my liking.  I might suggest casting on, K1R, then turn by garter and continue with the hat. – OR -  Begin with 3 rows of garter stitch before beginning the decreasing.

Finishing:

1.   Use a flat Bickford type seam to sew the back and brim seams.

2.   To finish the brim, with the purl side up, begin at a side opposite a yarn tail and use a latch tool to loosely pull one stitch thru the other around and fasten off.  Remove scrap yarn.

3.   Machine wash and dry on cool water and warm heat.  Dry only until damp dry.  Fit to head or wig form and allow to finish by air drying.

4.   Steam press the edge of the brim to correct curling. 

5.   May use a fabric stiffener, spray starch, hair spray, sugar/water, etc to stiffen the brim. 

6.   Weave a ribbon, I-cord, braid, etc thru the eyelet row. 

Bootie Pin or Needle Cushion

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Are you always searching or fumbling for a needle, pins or your double eyed transfer tool?  Or maybe you need a quick little giftie for a needle crafting friend.  Here is a cute way to be able to find your needles or pins easily when you need them.  I make one baby bootie, cut a sole shape from a piece of cardboard so it sits flat, amply stuff the bootie with scrap yarn ends or fiberfill and tie the bow at the top.  Any bootie pattern can be used. 

 

I have one sitting beside each of my machines.  Or they can be taken to knit-ins, to a favorite easy chair or on a road trip.  I knit these on my standard machine with bits of odds and ends of yarn but they can be made on any machine because size isn’t a concern. 

Cute, huh?

 

Ruffles the Electronic Way

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As an extension of my post on how to make shortrowed ruffles, Marzipanknits has graciously posted her electronic version of shortrowed ruffles on her blog at http://marzipanknits.blogspot.com/2013/03/ruffles-on-knitting-machine.html.  I urge you to try her version if you have an electronic or punch card machine.  And what an opportune time, right before the Purls of Joy seminar with their focus being ruffles this year.

Her electronic version is faster than hand pulling needles as in the manual version that I posted, but if you're doing Sew As Ya Go to attach to an already completed project, you will still need to pause to hang those stitches and you still will need to finish the edge of the ruffle to tame the curl.  However, lots of time is saved in just not having to manually pull needles for the shortrowing and it doesn't get nearly as tedious.

Happy ruffling!!

Ruffles by Manual Shortrowing

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This is a ruffle that I have attached to the edge of a blanket with a Sew As Ya Go (SAYG) method.  For a more stable edge, I worked one row of single crochet around the edge of the blanket before beginning the ruffle but it’s not necessary.  The ruffle is formed by shortrowing and may be made more full by decreasing the number of rows between short rows, or less full by increasing the number of rows between shortrows.  The width of the ruffle can also be adjusted by casting on more or less stitches.  The ruffle can be made independently and sewn onto the edge of the blanket later if you chose not to SAYG. 

1.   With waste yarn, CO 10 sts.  T6, with carriage on left, K1R to the right.  If not joining the ends as for a blanket, you may want to do a permanent e-wrap or crocheted cast on.  Adjust tension to your yarn depending on the drape you want.  I knit this blanket on my midgauge machine with Caron Simply Soft and chose T6 to work nicely.

2.   With carriage on the right and using a transfer tool, pick up one stitch from the edge of the non-public side of the blanket going through both loops of the edge stitch and hang on the first needle latch away from the carriage.  K2R, ending with carriage on the right. 

3.   Continue in this manner, picking up the next stitch from the blanket each time the carriage is on the right, for a total of 6R…or number of rows desired depending on how full you want the ruffle. 

4.   With carriage on the right, set machine to Hold and manually shortrow by putting 2 needles furthest away from the carriage in Hold.  Knit 2R.  

NOTE:  This method will create eyelet 'holes' along the knitted row.  If you don't want the eyelets, manually wrap the first needle in hold before knitting the 2nd row to the right.

5.   Repeat holding 2 needles each time the carriage is on the right until all needles are in hold. With all needles in working position (or with carriage off hold), knit 2R, ending with carriage on the right.  

6.   Continue around the blanket, picking up stitches from the blanket edge each time the carriage is on the right and then shortrowing in the above manner. On the corners, decrease the number of plain rows between shortrowing to 2 rows instead of 6 rows, 8 times.  

7.   When the ruffle has been completed, scrap off and graft to join to the cast on edge.  Or you may work a permanent bind off around the gate pegs or back stitching. 

EDGING:

As with any machine knitted piece, the edge of the ruffle will curl.  Use your favorite method to eliminate or lessen curling.  I have added a crocheted edging on this blanket.  With crochet hook, single crochet, chain 3 in every other stitch around the edge of the ruffle.   

Lightly steam the ruffle and allow to completely dry before moving.

A Lesson in 2 Color Double Bed Jacquard (DBJ)

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I developed these instructions for 2 color double bed jacquard using a Brother 965i machine, 4 color dbl bed color changer, ribber KR-850 and DK7.  I still need to refer to them every time I do dbj because if the setup isn’t done properly in this order, I can guarantee that I’ll most likely have to start over.  This is how I do it but always refer to your user’s manual if in doubt about any of the steps.  Check out a few tips that I learned along the way at the end of the article.
As always, please leave a comment if you find errors or if I'm not clear enough and I'll promptly fix it. 

SET UP COLOR CHANGER:

1.   Insert fine knitting bar behind gate pegs on main bed.

2.   Attach double bed color changer unit to left hand side of machine.

3.   Carriage on the right.

4.   Thread main color yarn thru the right side of antenna.

5.   Thread contrast color in the antenna to the left of the main color.

6.   Lower ribber.

7.   Secure both yarn ends in the yarn clip on the left hand side of the ribber.  The yarns go between the main bed and the ribber.

8.   Place the contrast color in #2 slot of the color changer. 

9.   Place main color in the #1 yarn slot.   

DOWNLOAD DESIGN IN MACHINE:

1.   Download any 2 color fairisle pattern into knitting machine.  

2.   If the method of knitting is changed to 2 color jacquard during the set up process, make sure it’s changed back to fairisle before downloading again.  If downloaded in 2 color jacquard method, the pattern will not knit properly. 

FOUNDATION ROWS:

1.  Set the knitter carriage end needle selection off.

2.  Set ribber at H (half-pitch) and rack to 5.

3.  Lift ribber up to connect carriages.  Make sure both carriages are set for plain knitting, no buttons or knobs selected.

4.   Select and pull out desired needles as for full needle rib on both the main bed and ribber bed.  Make sure there are an even number selected on the main bed and the ribber for birdseye backing. I like to CO with left main bed needle and the right ribber bed needle being the outermost.

5.   Pass attached carriages from R to L to align needles.

6.   Set both carriages to T2 (a good starting point for a 3 ply yarn.  Try T0 if using fine yarn or higher for a heavier yarn).

7.   Set ribber slide lever to ‘I’ only if tucking, ‘II’ or ‘lili’ if not tucking.

8.   With carriages to the left and positioned past the Turn Mark and til the color changer clicks, push in #1 yarn slot on the color changer (with the main color).

9.   With the main color in the yarn slot, K1R from L to R to make a zig-zag row.

10. Hang cast on comb, making sure that it is free hanging and not going to get caught up in the end ribber plates.  Do not hang weights yet.

11. Set carriages for circular knitting. (Main Bed: Left part button in.  Ribber: Right part button up.)

12.  Knit 2 rows.  One direction will knit the ribber and one will knit on the main bed.

13.  Release part buttons, on main carriage and ribber.

14.   Increase T dials to 3/3.  K1R from R to L past the click from the color changer.  COL. 

15.   Hang a large weight on each end of the cast on comb, one in the middle and a couple smaller weights across the comb. 

ACTIVATE INTERACTIVE KNITTING IN DAK: 

1.   Set up DAK for interactive knitting.  In Options, select the method of knitting to 2 color jacquard only AFTER the fairisle pattern has been downloaded to your machine.  This will ensure that 2 pattern rows are knitted before the pattern advances.  When DAK asks if you want to save the stitch pattern, say ‘Yes’.  BUT don’t forget to go back after finishing your dbj project and change the method of knitting back to Fairisle before you download it into your machine again.

2.   In Interactive Knitting, follow screen prompts and complete setup actions before proceeding. 

PRESELECT ROW:

1.  Make sure the magnet arm on the carriage is set to read DAK.

2.  Make sure the McRib button on your machine console is on.

3.  At main T and with desired yarn threaded in the carriage, turn KC knob on and with the carriage past the Turn Mark, K from L to R for the preselect row.  

SET UP CARRIAGES:

1.  With carriages on the right, set the carriages as follows....

Main Carriage:

KC button on.

Both part buttons engaged.

Ribber Carriage:

Slide lever to ‘lili’ for plain dbj, ‘II’ if a firmer fabric is desired, to ‘I’ only if doing tuck.

Both KR Change Knobs set to ‘lili’ for birdseye backing.

Left and right cam levers set to P-R.

Tuck Button up to P only for tuck birdseye.  (The tuck button will give you a more textured fabric and a wider piece of knitting.  Without it, you will have a flatter, narrower, and more plain piece.  Your choice.  If you use the tuck button the design will be shorter than it will without it engaged.)
 

2.   Set tensions for main knitting.  (I used Tamm 3 Ply Astracryl at T6 on main bed and T5 on ribber, if tucking.  Use the same tension on both carriages if not tucking.  If not tucking, tension dial may need to be raised atleast 1, if not 2 full numbers higher than normally used.)

3.  Set RC to 000.  Pattern row #1, Memo window on flashing 1.

4.  Click OK in DAK to sync the carriage.  Click the GO light only if the silver bar at the bottom is not showing.  The silver bar must be showing in the bottom tool bar.

5.  RC 000, K 1 row to L.  Make sure that the carriages go far enough to the left to hear a click from the color changer.  The click tells you to change yarn selection. 

KNITTING:

1.  Now press the #2 yarn slot to exchange yarns in the yarn feeder of the carriage.

NOTE:  Look at the machine memo window.  # 2 should be showing.  That is telling you that you need to change color of yarn to #2 for the next 2 rows.  Also look at DAK screen; it will tell you which yarn, direction of knitting, carriage side and row counters.  The row counter and pattern row will be different as you knit because dbj only advances the pattern row on every other pass.

2.  Continue knitting, making color changes on the left side only with the carriages properly seated in the color changer.   

3.  When knitting is complete, turn all patterning off, (all tuck and part buttons off  both carriages, KC knob off, 'lili buttons off), K1R over all needles in work on both beds at main tension.  T2/2, K2 circular rows with R part button pushed on main carriage and L part lever pushed up on the ribber carriage.  At T 10/8, part buttons off, K1R.  Break main yarn.  T 8/8, K10 rows in scrap.  Remove from machine and BO as below. 

CAST OFF with latch tool on side opposite the yarn tail:

1.  Pick up the first open st in main yarn from the right hand edge onto the tool.

2.  Pick up the next purl st from the front into the center st, just below the waste yarn.

3.  Alternately pick up the stitches from each bed as they were knit and scrapped off, placing the first st behind the latch, and pulling each new st thru the first st.

4.  At end of the row, pull the yarn end through the last st.
 

OR use FNR BO with double eyed needle on the machine. 

TIPS:

1.   Highly recommend starting with only a 2 color pattern until you get proficient with dbj.

2.   Look at the memo window on your machine whenever you change yarns.  It will tell you what color to change to.

3.   If you need to leave your work or take a break, always leave your carriages at the right hand side.  Then you will know that when you knit to the left and into the color changer that you will have to change colors.  If you’re unsure if you’ve changed yarns or not, look at the DAK Interactive screen to determine which yarn should be selected.

4.   Color changes are always made at the left thru the color changer, never at the right.

5.   Can do a striper backing by not engaging the KR Change Knobs. 

6.   Yarn tension will be a matter of trial and error.  Find one that works best for your yarn.  Highly suggest doing swatches.  If your carriages are dragging and hard to push, usually the answer is to reduce the tension dials, not increase.

7.   Usually set the ribber tension, one full number lower than the main carriage.

8.   Recommended not to use knobby or textured yarns.

9.   For a full size afghan, knit in panels and join together.

10. Keep moving weights up as you knit.  Don’t let the work become slack, especially on the sides.

11. Steaming is recommended to soften and make a nice drape, but I wouldn’t steam til after laundering, as most yarns soften during washing/drying.

12. Make sure that you start with a Fairisle (-F) pattern.  If your pattern gets saved as dbj (-2), you will need to change method of knitting to Fairisle before downloading to machine.

13.   Use the same weight yarns, but if using 2 different weight yarns, use the heavier for the main (background).

14.   If using the tuck button on the ribber, the design will be wider and shorter than normal, so in order to maintain a better proportional ratio, I rescaled the design to make it a few rows taller to compensate for the tucking distortion. 

15.   While knitting, the memo window, DAK yarn indicator and the color changer must all agree.  If they don’t, you will not pattern properly.  The memo window, DAK and color changer should all correspond before starting to knit the row from L to R. 

YARNS: 

Lighter weight yarns work best.  Tamm 3 Ply Astracryl or any fingering weight yarn would work well.  2 strands of 2/24 is even suggested.  Do some experimenting.  In her Prize Winning Afghans book, Joan Swanson is suggesting the following to be knit around T8, however a lot of these yarns have long since been discontinued: 

2 strands of 2/24

Bramwell Fine 4 ply

Mary Lue’s 3/15

Millor Andino, Pupe or Trenzado

Nomis 3/15 Excellence

Phentex Fingering 

Tamm 3 Ply, Trenzi  

She’s recommending T0/0 for the foundation row and up to 4 to 6 for:

1 strand of 2/24

Millor Infanta

Tamm Suavi

Delaine Acridel 

Another book is recommending:

Bramwell Fine 4 ply, Duo Magic, High Bulk, Artistic, Celebration

Millor Infanta, Andino and Pupe

Jaggerspun (all)

Delaine Acridel

Fiber Fantasy, Pure and Simple

2 strands of 2/24

Tamm 3 Ply Astracryl