Sunday, October 28, 2012

Christmas Stocking, Standard Gauge

(click on photos to enlarge)
This stocking is made from cuff down, knit flat, with the seam on the side.  I designed the fairisle patterns and motifs in DK7 but can easily be made on a punch card machine.  The motifs are a couple rows wider than a 24 st punch card but duplicate stitches can be added later to complete the pattern.

Machine:  Standard Brother KH965i
Yarn:  Tamm 3 Ply Astracryl
Tension 4
Gauge:  8.5 sts and 12.5 rows = 1”
Size:  Approx 6.5” wide at cuff and 20” long

1)   CO 104 sts with scrap and ravel cord.
2)   T4, RC000, K42R for lining of cuff.

3)   Knit 42 more rows, placing fairisle patterns at desired spacing.  Lettering will need to be flipped both horizontally and vertically in DAK.
4)   Hang hem, K1R at T6 with CC from R to L.  Start w/COL for DAK patterning.

1)  T4, change to main color yarn and knit a total of 124 rows after the cuff and to the beginning of the heel, placing fairisle pattern 24 rows below cuff and evenly spaced on the sides.  Run a lifeline before starting the fairisle pattern and take note of RC.  The fairisle pattern will need to be flipped upside down in DAK.  
2)  Decrease down to 84 sts by using a 3 prong tool to decrease 1 st at each end of every 12th row 10 times.  (At RC 96, 108, 120, 132, 144, 156, 168, 180, 192, 204)
3)   Knit even to RC208 total; this includes the cuff row count.  (COR)

1)   T4, change to contrasting yarn and place left half of sts (42) into HP.  Heel to be worked on R hand side.
2)   Shortrow down to 14 sts by:
               a.  At carriage side, pull 1 ndl in to HP til the same number of ndls on each
                    side and the ndl next to the carriage is wrapped.  COL.  (14 sts on ea side
                    in HP)
               b.  Do not knit across, but put the 1st ndl opposite the carriage into WP and
                    then K across.
               c.  Repeat til all ndls are in WP.  Be sure to wrap the needle next to the
                    carriage on each row.  COR.

1)   T4, RC000, change to main color yarn and knit a total of 56 rows. 
2)    Using a 3 prong tool, decrease down to 74 sts by decreasing 1 st at each end of
        every 10 rows 5 times.  (At RC 10, 20, 30, 40, 50)

1)   Working on right hand side, repeat shortrowing as for heel, work down to 13 sts.
      (12 sts on ea side in HP)
2)   Scrap off.

1)  Graft the toe seam from purl side.
2)  Mattress stitch the side seam, picking up 2 ladders instead of 1.
3)  Lightly steam to block.
4)  If desired, tack a piece of fine nylon tulle over the back of the fairisle motifs to cover the yarn floats.

I-Cord Hanger (If desired):
1)  From the inside of the cuff, hang 4 sts at the top of the cuff, centered in the middle of the heel side.
2)  T4, knit a 4 st I-cord for 4” long (60 rows).  
3)  Bind off and sew to beginning of the cord at the cuff line.

Placement of duplicate stitches
Covered floats


Friday, October 19, 2012

Mock Ribbed Edging
This mock rib makes an excellent flat edging on the sides of blankets, scarves and even on garment armholes, hems and cuffs.  You may want to lower the tension if using it for hems and cuffs on ends of knitted fabrics.  It’s a fine substitute solution for machines without ribbers to add a nice ribbed edge that won't curl.  It’s worked during knitting and not as an add-on technique after the piece is knit.   The ribbing is worked on stockinette work only, not patterned knitting such as lace, tuck or fairisle. 
Depending on how wide you want the edging, drop the stitches on the third needle from the edge and every other needle after that.  Then using your latch tool, go under every other ladder and pull thru the stitch on the latch tool.  This can be done every 20 to 30 rows or wait til the entire piece is knit, then work the full row.   The edging around the vest is worked on needles 3, 5 and 7 from each edge.  The scarf is worked on needles 3 and 5 from each edge.
(Click on photos to enlarge)

Sunday, October 7, 2012

A Lesson in Pesky Yarn...Biasing
(click on photos to enlarge)
Did ya ever run onto a yarn that just wouldn't cooperate?  I just did.  I chose a really nice superwash plied merino wool, did my swatch at a couple gauges and laundered per instructions.  Directions say to lay flat to dry which I did.  Look what happened to it....biased to the hilt.  I did the twist test and it passed miraculously so it should not have biased but here's proof.  I knew that nothing was going to cure biasing in stockinette stitch so I decided to work up a nice garter pattern that I would eventually use in a chemo cap...or any cap for that matter.  This yarn is so soft and nice that it will make a nice chemo cap.  I worked up a diagonal knit/purl pattern and ran it on my standard machine with garter carriage as I was working on something else at the time and took advantage of the graciousness of the g-carriage.  It turned out well, didn't bias and I'm really pleased with the pattern.  However my tension was a bit high so will need to lower it for the next hats with this yarn.  The yarn is very tender when it comes out of the washer, almost looks like a rag.  But it gains body as it dries, just can't be stretched or played with much until it's totally dry. 

Chemo Cap, Tucked

This cap would make a good sleep cap because of its length
and softness.  Increase tension to 4 or add more rows in the
body for a longer cap. 

Be sure to do a swatch and launder before calculating a size for any tuck pattern.  Normally tucking on the machine is wider and shorter than comparable stitches and rows in stockinette.

Machine:  SK860, 6.5mm midgauge
Yarn:  Berroco Comfort DK
Tension:  T3
Gauge:  5.5 sts and 12.5 rows per inch in tuck pattern
Size:  Woman’s Med

(click on photos to enlarge)
          8” wide and 8” high without stretching
          (This size would make a good sleep cap, knit taller
          for a hat to wear over the ears and protect from
          cold weather)

1)   CO 110 sts and at tension R, work 1x1 ribbing or ribbing of
      choice for 10 rows.
2)   Transfer ribber stitches to main bed and work tuck pattern
       at T3 for 70 rows or 5.5”.  Knit more rows for a longer cap.
3)   Begin crown shaping by:
a.  Starting with the same needle on each decrease row, transfer every 8th needle to its adjacent neighbor, move sts together, K2 rows.
b.  Transfer every 7th needle to its adjacent neighbor, move sts together, K2 rows.
c.  Continue in this manner until there are 2 sts between transfers.  K1 row, gather live sts and secure.

Keep the seams as flat as possible and do not pull tight.  It must remain as soft and as flat as possible.
1.  Sew ribbing from wrong side.
2.  Sew body of hat from right side using a Bickford type seam on the K stitches and a purl graft on the P stitches.

Monday, October 1, 2012

Flat and Invisible Seam in English Rib

This is how I seam two edges of English Rib together to make a flat and virtually invisible seam.  To be successful, the ribbing must be configured to knit with the outermost left hand needle on the main bed and the outermost right hand needle on the ribber bed.

Work from the wrong side of the fabric and sew the seam by catching the outermost stitches of each edge.  On one side, you will go thru the layers and pick up the ladder stitch.  Then on the other side, go down thru the knot stitch of the outer edge.  Then go to the first side and pick up the ladder stitch again.  Continue in this manner along the seam by working back and forth between the sides.  Remember not to pull the seam stitches too tightly so the seam is as stretchy as the garment fabric.