Chemo Turban, Revisited

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Click on photos to enlarge

A knitting friend, Bonnie, has knit several chemo turbans for those in need, bless her heart.  As we’re in the middle of a long, cold upper Midwest winter, she used a heavier yarn than I have specified in my earlier posted pattern and has graciously given me her consent to share her patterns.  Here are a couple of her concepts using the same yarn but with different gauges.  Both are great but she said she prefers the feel of the one knit in a tighter gauge.  Either are very acceptable because we fortunate ones with hair can’t predict what will feel good on the skin of those without.  From my previous experiences, my sister’s head was very tender and she preferred the smooth, soft yarns like Simply Soft or Berroco Comfort.  Then another friend’s head wasn’t tender and she preferred the fuzzier type yarns.  So use up that yarn, someone will make good use of them. 

A big thank you goes to Bonnie for her patterns. 

TURBAN  #1

Machine:  LK150 midgauge

Yarn:  Deborah Norville Everyday,  aran weight, 1 – 3.5 oz skein, 180 yds

Tension:  T7 and as noted

Size:  Woman’s medium 

1.  Cast on 78 stitches with several rows of waste yarn and ravel cord.

2.  E-wrap from L to R.

3.  RC000, T6, knit 6 rows.

4.  *  Remove fabric with a garter bar or several rows of waste yarn, turn work and rehang on

      the same needles.

5.   Knit 6 rows. *

6.   T7, repeat from * to * to RC054 with 9 total repeats.

7.   T6, knit 4 rows.

8.   T5, knit 4 rows.

9    T4, knit 4 rows, COL.

10.  Decrease for crown by transferring every other stitch to adjacent needle.

11.  T3, knit 1 row to right.

12. Gather live stitches and secure.

13.  Sew side seam. 

Band:

1.   With right side facing, pick up 5 stitches in top center of the hat.

2.   T4, knit about 32 rows, hang on other side of hat and bind off. 

An I-cord or 1x1 ribbing for the band is also an option.

Embellish as desired.

TURBAN #2

Machine:  LK150 midgauge

Yarn:  Deborah Norville Everyday,  aran weight, 1 – 3.5 oz skein, 180 yds

Tension:  T6 and as noted

Size:  Woman’s medium 

1.  Cast on 90 stitches with several rows of waste yarn and ravel cord.

2.  E-wrap from L to R.

3.  RC000, T5, * knit 6 rows.

4.  Remove fabric with a garter bar or several rows of waste yarn, turn work and rehang on the

      same needles. *

5.   T6, repeat from * to * to RC054 with 9 total repeats.

6.   T5, knit 10 rows.

7.   T4, knit 6 rows, COL.

8.   Decrease for crown by transferring every other stitch to adjacent needle.

9.   T3, knit 1 row to right.

10. Gather live stitches and secure.

11. Sew side seam. 

Band:

1.   With right side facing, pick up 6 stitches in top center of the hat.

2.   T3, knit an I-cord for about 80 rows, hang on other side of hat and bind off. 

A rolled stockinette stitch or 1x1 ribbing for the band is also an option.

Embellish as desired.

Quarter Crown for Hats

(Click on photos to enlarge)

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A fellow machine knitter Margaret, AKA as ‘HybridSJ’on Ravelry, posted a very interesting finishing for crowns of hats.  It involves dividing the hat body into 4ths, knitting triangles from each 4th section and joining together with SAYG (Seam As Ya Go).  It makes a flat, form fitting crown that lends itself nicely to beanies, helmet liners, chemo caps, or any hat crown where gathering isn’t always the best finishing technique.  And it goes much faster than decreasing across the row and moving stitches in.  Since she doesn't maintain a blog, she gave me permission to post it on mine so it could have more visibility.

 

 

So here’s Margaret’s post.  http://www.ravelry.com/projects/HybridSJ/quarter-crown  And I’ll add my own take on it afterward.  

Margaret’s Notes:

The quarter crown can be done at the end of a machine knit hat without removing from the machine, or you can take off on waste yarn, or even rehang stitches from an in the round hand knit pattern.

Last row of the body pattern should be divisible by four, so reduce or increase accordingly. For example, if you have 86 stitches, decrease two stitches evenly on the last row. If you have 87, you could decrease to 84 or increase to 88. I prefer to decrease.

If knitting straight on from the body of the machine, put 3/4 needles in hold. In the case of 84 stitches, that’s 63 in hold, 21 in work.

Decrease one stitch fully fashioned each end. I use the 2 x 1 tool to move 2 stitches over one needle each end. Knit that row and the next, i.e. two rows.

Repeat these two rows until 3 stitches are left. Thread yarn through stitches and take off.

Bring next 21 (or quarter) stitches into work. Knit decrease row. Hang stitch from nearest end of first quarter on end needle opposite carriage.

Repeat these two rows until 3 stitches are left. Thread yarn through stitches and take off.

Repeat twice more. Sew seam or follow instructions for knitting in the round.

Finishing from in the round

Hang quarter stitches and continue knitting as above for three quarters.

On last quarter, pick up stitches as before PLUS unworked stitches from first quarter. I am still experimenting with the best time to pick up the first quarter end stitches but picking up on the first or third row works with some “fudging”.

Or you can do a mattress stitch seam to finish. (only you will notice the slight difference and it is easier)

 

My Take:

I decided to try using a 1 prong tool decrease on the crown instead of a 2 prong tool. It worked well and gives a bit different look.  Both are totally acceptable, it’s just another option.

I worked the hat flat, not in the round, and used a Bickford seam to sew up the last triangles and the seam.  It is flat, virtually invisible and doesn’t leave the inside bulk that mattress stitching does.

So, thank you very much, Margaret.  It’s a keeper technique.

Brimmed Chemo Sun Hat

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(Click on photos to enlarge)

Machine:  Bulky

Yarn:  Peaches and Crème worsted cotton, 3.5 oz

           1 strand of 10/2 cotton in brim only, small amount

Gauge:  4 sts, 7 rows = 1”

Tension:  T8 for brim, T6 for crown

Size:  Woman’s Medium, 21” circumference

Begin with the brim:  Make 2.  (See note below)

1.   Scrap/ravel cord, CO 70 sts.

2.   T10++, K1R.

3.   Use one strand of Peaches and Crème and 1 strand of 10/2 cotton, threaded thru separate tension units on the mast.  T10+, K1R.

4.   T8, K2R.  (RC004)

5.    *  Dec 9 sts evenly across, starting with ndl L2.

6.    Use a garter bar, multiple stitch transfer tool or scrap off

       and rehang to move stitches together after the decrease

       rows so there are no empty needles. *

7.    K4R.   (RC008)

8.    Repeat from * to *.   K4R.  (RC012)

9.    Repeat from * to *.   K3R.  (RC015)  (43 sts remain)

10.  T6, K1R.  (RC016)

11.  Scrap off.

Crown:

12.  With wrong sides facing, hang the 2 brim pieces side by side onto 86 needles.  Remove scrap yarn.

13.  T6, K1R.  (without the 10/2 cotton)

14.  Beginning with needle #3L and keeping the empty needles in work, make an eyelet row by transferring every 3^rd st to its neighbor to the right.  (Make an even # of eyelets)

15.  RC000, K18R.

16.  *  Beginning with needle #3L, evenly decrease 9 sts total across.  Use a garter bar, multiple stitch transfer tool or scrap off and rehang to move stitches together after the decrease rows so there are no empty needles.  K2R.  *

17.  Keeping the decrease stitches on the same needles as the previous decrease row, repeat decreases from * to * 8 times total til 14 sts remain.

18.  K1R, cut yarn and gather live stitches and secure.

Note:  The CO edge of the brim flares upward a bit too much for my liking.  I might suggest casting on, K1R, then turn by garter and continue with the hat. – OR -  Begin with 3 rows of garter stitch before beginning the decreasing.

Finishing:

1.   Use a flat Bickford type seam to sew the back and brim seams.

2.   To finish the brim, with the purl side up, begin at a side opposite a yarn tail and use a latch tool to loosely pull one stitch thru the other around and fasten off.  Remove scrap yarn.

3.   Machine wash and dry on cool water and warm heat.  Dry only until damp dry.  Fit to head or wig form and allow to finish by air drying.

4.   Steam press the edge of the brim to correct curling. 

5.   May use a fabric stiffener, spray starch, hair spray, sugar/water, etc to stiffen the brim. 

6.   Weave a ribbon, I-cord, braid, etc thru the eyelet row. 

Chemo Cap, Tucked

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This cap would make a good sleep cap because of its length
and softness.  Increase tension to 4 or add more rows in the
body for a longer cap. 

Be sure to do a swatch and launder before calculating a size for any tuck pattern.  Normally tucking on the machine is wider and shorter than comparable stitches and rows in stockinette.

Machine:  SK860, 6.5mm midgauge
Yarn:  Berroco Comfort DK
Tension:  T3
Gauge:  5.5 sts and 12.5 rows per inch in tuck pattern
Size:  Woman’s Med


(click on photos to enlarge)

          8” wide and 8” high without stretching
          (This size would make a good sleep cap, knit taller
          for a hat to wear over the ears and protect from
          cold weather)

1)   CO 110 sts and at tension R, work 1x1 ribbing or ribbing of
      choice for 10 rows.
2)   Transfer ribber stitches to main bed and work tuck pattern
       at T3 for 70 rows or 5.5”.  Knit more rows for a longer cap.
3)   Begin crown shaping by:
a.  Starting with the same needle on each decrease row, transfer every 8^th needle to its adjacent neighbor, move sts together, K2 rows.
b.  Transfer every 7^th needle to its adjacent neighbor, move sts together, K2 rows.
c.  Continue in this manner until there are 2 sts between transfers.  K1 row, gather live sts and secure.

Finishing:
Keep the seams as flat as possible and do not pull tight.  It must remain as soft and as flat as possible.
1.  Sew ribbing from wrong side.
2.  Sew body of hat from right side using a Bickford type seam on the K stitches and a purl graft on the P stitches.

Add a Bill to a Cap

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It's quite easy actually to add a bill to a cap.  I used a favorite cap pattern, knit on my bulky machine with 80 sts at T9 with a bulky yarn.  This particular cap features a non-stretchy band, which I doubled in length to accomodate a fold over band.  If I were putting a bill on a stretchy band such as ribbing, I probably would stabilize the front part of the band before attaching the bill, maybe with a slip stitch at the fold line or something similar.  So I made the hat and added the bill like this:

1)  Fold the band in half lengthwise and loosely
tack down to the beginning row of the hat body, picking up
the inner edge stitch loop of the band only.

2) With wrong side facing, hang 30 sts from
the front center of the hat band.  Somewhat stretch the
band while picking up stitches.

3)  T9, K1R to L.

4)  RC000, Put machine on hold.  On carriage side, bring
out the first working needle to hold position.  T8, Knit across.

5)  Repeat on the right hand side.

6)  Continue to shortrow decrease in this manner with the following needles on each side:
               1, 1, 2, 1, 2, 1 = 24 rows   (8 sts on each side in HP, 14 sts in work in center)

7)  When the same number of needles are in HP on each side, reverse the shaping to increase in the same order as above (1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 1) until all needles are back into work, except 1 on each side.  Put both needles into working position and knit across.  Wrap the 1^st needle on carriage side on each pass to prevent holes.  Leave a long tail of yarn for sewing.

8)  Scrap off with several rows of waste yarn.

9)  Insert a 'moon' shaped piece of heavy Pellon interfacing between the layers and pin in place.  Just a note that the more rounded the 'moon' shape is against the head, the less it will flop down.

10) Evenly across, blanket stitch each live stitch of the bill to the first  stitch of the band.  Remove waste yarn.

11) After the bill has been sewn down with the Pellon inserted, inconspicuously tack in several places on the underside of the bill with a sewing needle and thread to hold the Pellon in place during wearing and laundry. 

12)  Work 1 row of crocheted (latch tool) slip stitch on the inside of the bill, going thru each stitch of the bill and picking up a stitch from the inside layer of the band.  This will keep it from stretching and to help keep the bill from flopping down.

Long Stocking Hat

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Machine:  Standard, Brother 965i without ribber
Yarn:  Tamm Bebe, approx  9 oz total
Tension:  6
Gauge:  7.5 sts, 11 rows = 1”
Size:   Woman's Med (20” circumference without stretching, 34”- 37” long total)

1)   CO 152 sts with scrap and ravel cord.
2)   RC000, Knit to RC100.
3)   Hang hem and K1R at T8.
4)   T6, Knit to RC121.
5)   RC000, with a 3 prong transfer tool, work decreases on each side of
       every 5th row 25 times, then every 4th row 42 times til 16 sts remain,
       til RC297.  
       NOTE:  For a 3” cuff to turn up, dec on each side of every 5^th row every
       58 times, then every 4^th row 10 times, til 16 sts remain at RC330.
6)   Gather sts on needles and secure.

Finishing:
Sew side seam in mattress stitch and hide all yarn tails.
Add a large pompom if desired.

NOTES: 
This hat can be made on any machine with appropriate yarn by multiplying the number of sts per inch by the circumference needed.  Can make any length desired. 

I used the Magic Formula calculator at http://www.getknitting.com/ak_0603mfcalc.aspx  to determine decreases.

The stripe pattern was formulated by the random stripe generator at http://www.biscuitsandjam.com/stripe_maker.php.

Chemo Bucket Hat

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Machine:  Bulky
Yarn:  Peaches and Crème worsted cotton, 3.5 oz
Tension:  T6   (T5 for smaller hat)
Gauge:   4.25 sts, 6.5 rows = 1”
Size:  Woman’s medium, 21” head circumference

Brim:
1.   Scrap and ravel cord CO 85 sts.
2.   T7 (or T8 for a more flared brim), knit 14 rows.
3.   Either work a picot row by transferring every other 
      st to its neighbor to the right  -OR-  make a turn row 
      by knitting across all ndls at T10.
4.   T7 (or T8 as before), knit 13 rows.
5.   Hang hem from the first row of CO sts.

Body:
1.   T6, knit 1 row.
2.   If desired make an eyelet row by transferring every 3rd st to its neighbor to the right.
3.   Knit 20 more rows for a total of 21 rows, or height desired.

Crown Shaping:
1.   Begin crown shaping by:
      a.  Transferring every 11^th st to its neighbor to the right.
      b.  Use a 3 prong transfer tool, garter bar, or by scrapping off and
            rehanging to move the stitches together to fill the empty
            needles. 
      c.   Knit 2 rows.
      d.   Continue decreasing by transferring every 10th st to its   
            neighbor to the right, move sts together and K2 rows.
      e.   Transfer every 9^th st to its neighbor to the right, move sts
             together and knit 2 rows.
      f.    Continue in this manner til 15 sts remain. 
2.  Knit 1 row.
3.  Cut yarn and gather thru the live sts on the needles and fasten off.
4.  Sew side seam with a flat Bickford type seam.

Note:  If using a ribber, this hat may be knit in the round after the brim by transferring half the needes to the ribber bed and setting machine for circular knitting.


Notes:
Can make any size by adjusting number of CO sts and rows.

Launder in washer on low temp and dry in a warm dryer until damp dry.  Then remove and form to head, work the brim to flare out and let air dry completely.

Run a ribbon, I-cord or braid thru the eyelet row to allow for size adjustment.

If not making an eyelet row, you may work a row of chain stitches over the first row above the hung hem.

Chemo Kerchief

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Machine:  Standard Gauge with Ribber
Size:  Woman’s Med
Approx 20” head circumference and 16-17” long
Yarn:  Approx 2 oz
           Tamm 3 Ply Astracryl, (T6)
           Bebe Tamm (T7), or similar
Tension:  6 to 7
Gauge:  Approx 8 sts, 10 rows per inch
This kerchief can be made with any yarn and to any size by adjusting number of stitches and rows.  Knit them longer to tuck in under the ribbing at the back of the neck.

1)   E-wrap CO 2 needles.
2)   RC000.  To make a triangle, bring out to working position the first empty needle next to the knitting on the carriage side and knit across.
3)   Continue increasing by bringing out the first empty needle into working position on the carriage side and knitting across on each row until 21” wide, approx to RC148 (150 sts).
4)   Continue knitting without increasing for desired length.  For a 16” length, knit to RC160.
5)   Transfer every other stitch to corresponding ribber needles for 1x1 rib.
6)   T2/2, hang ribber weights evenly across, knit in ribbing for 13 rows.
7)   Transfer the ribber stitches to corresponding needles on the main bed.
8)   With carriage on the left, work a firm but not tight backstitch BO.  Or use any preferred BO with elasticity.
9)   Using a flat Bickford type seam, sew the ends of the ribbing together and about 1” of the back edge.
10)  Work in yarn ends, launder and steam to control the curl at the point and to give a nice drape.

Note:  A small overall tuck pattern adds a nice touch, but you will need to add a few rows to the length to make allowances for the altered gauge of the tucking.

Simply Soft Chemo Cap

Machine: Silver Reed SK860 Midgauge, 6.5mm, with ribber

Yarn: Caron Simply Soft (Use soft yarn)
Tension: Main Bed T5, Ribber T7
Gauge: Approx 5.5 sts, 8 rows per inch
Sizes: Woman’s Medium, to cover the ears.
(16-17” dia, 8-1/2 -9” long without stretching)            

Hem:
1)  Scrap and ravel cord CO 90 sts, leaving enough yarn to sew up the hem seam.
2)  RC 000, T5.  Knit 33 rows, ending with COR.
3)  Hang hem from the cast on edge.
4)  T8, K1R across. COL.
5)  Set machine to hold, and move the sts left of 0 to hold position.
Using scrap yarn, knit several rows over the working sts on the right hand side of 0.
Remove the scrapped off sts from the machine and fold them across in front of the sts on the main bed.
6)  Put the needles in hold into working position, raise ribber one notch and hang the scrapped off sts onto the ribber.
7)  Replace the knitter arm with the ribber arm and set for tubular knitting.
8)  Remove scrap yarn.
Note:  Cap may be made flat without a ribber.  Sew the seam with a flat Bickford type seam.

Body:
1)  RC 000, T5.
2)  K even for 78 rows, ending with COL.
May adjust length here by adding or subtracting rows.

                                                                    Crown:
1) Dec on the 7th st by moving it to its neighbor
evenly across both beds. Depending on the number
of CO sts, calculations may not come out evenly. So
space evenly and jot down the number of sts left
between each decrease. The decreases should happen
on the same needle each row. Move sts together with
transfer tool or garter bar. K4 R.
2)  Dec on the 6th st, move sts together, K4R.
3)  Dec on the 5th st, move sts together, K4R.
4)  Continue in this manner til every other needle is left.   
5)  Move sts together, K2R, cut yarn and run the yarn thru the live sts with a large eyed needle.

Finishing:
Gather, tie off and weave in yarn tail.
Embellish as desired with an I-cord flower, bow, crocheted flower, etc.

Note:  Ribbing may be used in place of the hung hem but be mindful to keep it soft and non-binding.

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English Rib Chemo Cap

Machine:  Silver Reed SK860, 6.5mm Midgauge with ribber
Yarn:  Bernat Baby Jacquards, 1 skein
                  Or any soft baby weight yarn
Tension:  0/0
Gauge:  Approx 3-1/2 sts, 8 rows per inch
Size:  Woman’s Medium
Dimensions:  7” inside diameter, 11” long; unstretched

Body:
1)   CO 88 in 1x1 ribbing with the outermost left hand needle
       on the main bed and the outermost right hand needle
       on the ribber. 
2)   T 0/0, RC000.
       K140R in English rib for foldover cuff,
       K120R for non foldover cuff.
Note:  A short version makes a nice sleep cap.
3)   Transfer ribber sts to the main bed.
4)   T2, K1R across.


Decrease Top:
1)   Dec on every 8^th st, move sts together, K2R.
2)   Dec on every 7^th st, move sts together, K2R.
3)   Dec on every 6^th st, move sts together, K2R.
4)   Continue in this manner til 2 sts remain between
      decreases, move sts together, K2R.






Finishing:
Cut yarn, leaving enough for seaming.   Run the yarn thru the live sts with a large eyed needle.  Gather, tie off.

Seam:
Working from the wrong side, sew the seam by catching the outermost sts. Pick up the knot from one edge, then the ladder between the rib layers on the other edge. This makes a flat, invisible seam.

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Furry Chemo Cap



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Machine:  SK860, 6.5mm midgauge
                KX350, 7mm midgauge, reduce T by 1 click
Yarn:  Lion Brand Fun Fur or comparable, 1  skein, 64 yds
          Moda-Dea Zing, T8 on KX350, 1 skein
Size:  Woman’s medium
          7-8” long, 8” wide unstretched
          Stretched to 20-21” circumference
Tension:  9   (KX350, T8.5)
Gauge:  Approx 4 sts and 6 rows = 1”

1)   CO 63 sts with waste yarn and ravel cord and e-wrap.
2)   RC000, T8, K4R.
3)   T9, Knit to RC043.
4)   T6, decrease EON and K2R.
5)   Decrease EON and move stitches together to make EON across the bed.  K2R.
6)   Decrease EON and move stitches together to make EON across the bed.  K1R.
7)   Cut yarn and run thru the live stitches on the needles, gather and secure.
8)   Loosely, sew the side seam with a flat Bickford type stitch.

NOTES:
Machine wash and dry on cool/cool to see it magically fluff out.  Brush the purl side with a nylon brush after drying if you want more 'fluff'.

This cap is quite stretchy widthwise so exact gauge is not necessary, but don’t make it too skimpy.  It must comfortably stretch to 20-21” in width.  This size will cover the ears and back of neck.  Reduce tension to 8 for a smaller size and/or adjust number of CO sts and rows for desired size.

Eyelash yarn has a definite direction so load the yarn in your feeder with the lashes pointing upward.  The lashes have a tendency to get caught in the gate pegs so after every couple of rows, pull down on your work to keep it knitting consistently. 

Cap is worn with the purl side out, the cast on edge will roll nicely toward the head. 

Also can be made on a bulky machine to any size by reducing sts, rows and tension by .75.  Experiment for desired size!

Can be made in the round with ribber by putting half the sts on the ribber and follow your machine instructions for tubular knitting.  

The varigated skeins of fur yarns usually have less yardage than the solid colors so allow for more than one skein per hat or make a smaller size.

 

Chemo Cap, Sport Weight

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Machine:  Silver Reed SK860 Midgauge, 6.5mm, with ribber
Yarn:  Redheart Designer Sport –or-
           I Love This Yarn Sport, 1 skein
Tension:  Main Bed T3, Ribber T5
Gauge:
     Redheart Designer:  6 sts, 9 rows per inch
     I Love This Yarn Sport:  6 sts, 8.5 rows per inch
Size:  Woman’s Medium, to cover the ears.
     (17-18” dia, 8-1/2 -9” long without stretching)  

HEM:
1)   Scrap and ravel cord CO 104 sts, leaving enough yarn to sew up the hem seam.
2)   RC 000, T3.  Knit 36 rows (2”), ending with COR.
3)   Hang hem from the cast on edge.

To knit in the round:
4)   T6, K1R across.  COL.
5)   Set machine to hold, and move the sts left of 0 to hold position.
6)   Using scrap yarn, knit several rows over the working sts on the right hand side of 0.
7)   Remove the scrapped off sts from the machine and fold them across in front of the sts on the main bed.
8)   Put the needles in hold into working position, raise ribber one notch and hang the scrapped off sts onto the ribber.
9)   Replace the knitter arm with the ribber arm and set for tubular knitting.  Remove scrap yarn.

BODY:
1)   RC 000, Main Bed T3, Ribber T5
2)   K even for 100 rows with Redheart, (94 rows with I Love This Yarn), ending with COL.
May adjust length here by adding or subtracting rows.

NOTE:  If not knitting in the round divide the number of rows by 2.

CROWN:

1)   Dec  on the 7^th st by moving it to its neighbor evenly across both beds.  Depending on the number of CO sts, calculations may not come out evenly.  So just space evenly and jot down the number of sts left between each decrease.  The decreases should happen on the same needle each row.  Move sts together with transfer tool or garter bar. 

2)   K6 R.

3)   Dec  on the 6^th st, move sts together, K6R.

4)   Dec  on the 5^th st, move sts together, K6R.

5)   Continue in this manner til down to 2 needles left between dec.

6)   Move sts together, K4R, cut yarn and run the yarn thru the live sts with a large eyed needle.   

FINISHING:      

Gather, tie off and weave in yarn tail.

Sew hem seam with a flat Bickford type stitch.

Cap may be embellished with an I-cord flower as shown, a bow or a variety of crocheted flowers.  Remember to keep embellishments soft or removable so they won't cut into tender skin when laying down or resting.

Chemo Cap, Transfer Lace

Machine:  SK860 6.5mm midgauge with ribber

Yarn:  I Love This Yarn, Sport Weight Tweed,
      1 – 2 oz skein, 184 yds
Tension:  Ribbing TR, Body T3
Size:  Woman’s, 19” dia, 8” tall unstretched

Please advise chemo warriors not to wear this hat in the sun. 
Their tender skin may sunburn thru the lace holes.

1)  CO 108 sts (Multiples of 9) in 1x1 ribbing.

2)  Tension R, rib for 9 rows.

3)  Transfer ribber sts to corresponding main bed needles.

4)  T3, K2R.

5)  Begin lace work, leaving 1 st on each side.

6)  Work transfer lace pattern for 44R (approx. 6”)

7)  K2R.

8)  T2, Work crown decrease as follows:

               * Decrease EOS, K2R,

               * Decrease EOS, move the sts to EON, K2R.  Repeat one more time.

               * Gather live sts and secure.

9)  Sew seam and ribbing with a flat Bickford type stitch.

Lace Pattern:

1.  Using a 3 prong transfer tool, start with the 2^nd st from the right edge and * transfer all 3 sts one needle to the left, to have 2 sts on needle #5 and a lace hole on needle #2.

2.   Transfer the next 3 sts on the left of needle #5 to the right, leaving 3 sts on needle #5 and a hole on needle #8.  Skip 2 sts. * 

3.   Working from right to left, repeat pattern across the row from * to *,  as in chart below. 

4.   Make sure to work the transfers in the same direction throughout.  K2R and continue the pattern for approx. 6”. 

																		2
	0			/I\			0			0			/I\			0		1

 

 

NOTE:  This hat can be made on any machine with any yarn by adjusting number of CO sts and rows according to yarn gauge.  Ribbing can be made without a ribber by working a latched rib or hung hem mock ribbing.

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