Those pesky holes on the sides of heel shaping in circular shortrowed machine knit socks are easily fixed on the machine with a couple of simple extra steps.There are several ways to hide the holes, but this is my all time favorite.Just a note that I again did not devise this technique but have borrowed it from a seasoned machine sock knitter, 'Ozlorna' on Ravelry. Check out her post at http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/machine-knitting/1395719/451-475#466
Apparently this 'trick' came from the hand knit version of Japanese short rows.
This is what I call the 'bobby pin' trick. It is easy to do and looks very nice.
beginning the shortrow decreases, hang a bobby pin on the yarn coming off the
main bed and into the carriage.Snug it
up to the first stitch.You may want to
hang a clothes pin from the bobby pin if the magnets in your carriage interfere
with its hanging down.
with your shortrowing as usual…until you get to the last row.Do NOT knit across the last increase row but
hang another bobby pin on the strand of yarn coming off the main bed and into
the carriage.Snug it up to the first needle,
put your needles back in working position and knit across to finish the
last row of shortrowing, pick up the bobby pins and hang that stitch onto the
first needle of the ribber bed on each side.Remove bobby pins and raise the ribber back up into working position.
circular knitting on the side opposite the last heel row knit.
I have knit a LOT of
socks so I don’t really need to use my formal 4 page sock pattern anymore.So I made up this generic schematic that I
use instead.When I have the foot measurements
I need, the yarn and gauge, I print out the schematic, fill in the blanks with the pertinent data,
add whatever notes I need or want to and I have the perfect sock pattern for that
person.Then I scan and save the document for
future reference for that person. I knit my circular socks starting with the cuff but this schematic would work for a toe up sock too. Just cast on at the toe instead of the cuff.
This is how my schematic looks after I've filled in the information for a particular person.
I’m trying to get caught up with a few
things on my blog, which has been woefully neglected the last little
while.Knitters ask about my socks so
thought I’d focus on some of my favorite techniques.The first thing that comes to mind is how I
shortrow for the heels and toes.I know
that some don’t like shortrowed heels and toes but I hope those who do will find
Some complain that shortrowed
heels/toes are too rounded and not form fitting.The shortrow standard is to decrease down to
1/3 of the total number of stitches.For
example if I have a total of 36 stitches in the heel/toe, the standard 1/3
calculation would tell you to leave 12 sts in the center with 12 sts on each
side during the decreasing.This is merely a guideline and
doesn’t have to be etched in stone.If I’m
knitting for a narrower heel or toe, I generally decrease down 2 more stitches than
the 1/3 calculation. For example, I’ll shortrow down
to 10 sts, leaving 13 sts on each side.By the same token, if I’m knitting for a squattier heel/toe, I’ll
shortrow down to only 14 sts with 11 sts on each side.Shortrowing can be as form fitting as you want
with these simple adjustments, just remember to have the same number of
stitches in the sections on both side of the center stitches.
I like this method of shortrowing
because it gives a firmer ‘seam’ line than the standard shortrow method and it
does a nice automatic wrap of that first needle to prevent pesky holes along the seam line.I certainly didn’t ‘invent’
this method but I’ve been using it for just forever.
My pictures show a sock knit in the
round but this shortrow method works equally well with a flat sock.If knitting circularly and your heel/toe is to be formed on the main bed, make sure that the
last row knitted is on the main bed so that the yarn is coming off the main
1. To decrease, lower
the ribber one notch, change to main carriage arm and put on hold, hang weights on front of work, at carriage side pull 1 ndl into hold position
for automatic wrap and knit across. Hang weights as needed on the main bed
2.Continue til there are desired number of sts
in working position. (The general standard is that 1/3 sts remain in work, however this
is not necessary. Stay as close as you can to 1/3, but it is important that you have
the same number of sts in hold on each side before beginning the increase
3.When you have the desired number of needles
in work and the needle closest to the carriage pulled to hold position AND the
same number of sts in hold on each side,do NOT knit across…immediately increase
back out by putting 2 ndls opposite the carriage back into working position and
then knit across.
4.On subsequent rows, pull one needle at beg of
each row on the carriage side into hold position AND two needles opposite the
carriage into working position each rowtil all needles except a set of two
needles on each side are again in workingposition.
5.When increased back out to one group of sts
left on each side, put both sets backinto work at the same time. Unwrap the first needle on the carriage side and knit
6.There are several finishing techniques to
prevent holes from forming on the sides ofshortrowing but I’ll discuss my favorites
in another post.
This photo shows a toe from the top side as it would appear on the foot. Again the pointiness can be altered by adjusting the number of stitches left in the center during the decreasing process of shortrowing.